Short answer: A running toilet is usually a worn flapper or fill valve, one of the quickest plumbing fixes there is. A dripping faucet usually needs a new cartridge, washer or O-ring. Leaks matter more than they look: the EPA's WaterSense program says a faucet dripping once per second can waste more than 3,000 gallons a year, and the average household's leaks can waste more than 9,300 gallons a year.
Running toilet
A toilet that refills on its own, hisses, or runs for a long time after a flush is the most common water waster in the house. The usual causes:
- Worn flapper. The rubber seal at the bottom of the tank warps or hardens and lets water leak into the bowl. The EPA recommends checking it periodically and replacing it at least every five years.
- Chain problems. A chain that is too short holds the flapper open; too long and it gets caught under it.
- Fill valve set too high. Water overflows into the overflow tube. Lower the float so the water stops about an inch below the top of the tube.
- Failing fill valve. It hisses, refills slowly, or never fully shuts off.
- Cracked overflow tube or a worn flush valve seat, which usually means replacing the flush valve.
Dye test: put a few drops of food coloring in the tank. WaterSense says that if color appears in the bowl within 10 minutes without flushing, you have a leak. Flush afterward so the dye does not stain.
Other toilet problems
Leaking at the base
Water around the base after flushing usually means the wax ring has failed or the toilet is loose on the flange. This one should not wait: water seeping under the toilet can rot the subfloor and stain the ceiling below. The fix is to pull the toilet, replace the wax ring or seal, check the flange, and reset the toilet level and secure.
Rocking toilet
A toilet that rocks has usually broken its wax seal or has a loose or broken flange. Tightening the bolts can crack the porcelain if overdone; shimming and resetting is the right repair.
Weak or incomplete flush
Mineral buildup in the rim holes, a partial clog in the trapway, a low water level in the tank or a flapper closing too early can all cause a weak flush. If the toilet is old, a new WaterSense labeled model may flush better and use less water.
Clogs that keep coming back
If one toilet clogs often, something may be lodged in it. If several drains are slow too, it is likely the main line. See drain cleaning.
Leaking between tank and bowl
Worn tank bolts and gaskets let water drip from under the tank. Replacing the tank to bowl gasket and bolts is a common repair.
Cracked tank or bowl
A crack in the porcelain cannot be reliably repaired. Replace the toilet.
Dripping and leaking faucets
Most faucets fall into four types, and the fix depends on which you have:
| Faucet type | How to recognize it | Usual fix for a drip |
|---|---|---|
| Compression | Separate hot and cold handles you tighten down to close | New washers and seats |
| Cartridge | Single or double handle that moves smoothly | New cartridge |
| Ball | Single handle on a rounded cap, common in kitchens | New seals, springs and O-rings, or a repair kit |
| Ceramic disc | Single lever over a wide cylinder | New disc cartridge or seals |
Knowing the brand helps. Many major brands sell replacement cartridges, and some offer lifetime warranties on parts for the original buyer. If your faucet is a name brand, it is worth checking before replacing the whole fixture.
Leak under the sink
Water in the cabinet often comes from a loose supply line, a worn shutoff valve, a leaking faucet base, or a drain connection rather than the faucet itself. Put a dry paper towel under each connection and run the water to find which one is wet.
Low flow at one faucet
Unscrew the aerator at the tip and clean out the debris. If that does not fix it, the cartridge may be clogged.
Shower and tub valves
- Dripping shower head: usually a worn cartridge or washer in the valve behind the handle. WaterSense says a showerhead leaking 10 drips per minute can waste more than 500 gallons a year.
- Water too hot or too cold, or temperature swings: a worn pressure balancing or thermostatic cartridge.
- Handle hard to turn: mineral buildup on the cartridge.
- Water coming from both the tub spout and shower head: a worn diverter.
- Water behind the wall or a stain on the ceiling below: a leak at the valve body or shower pan. That calls for leak detection.
A real person answers 24 hours a day and tells you what to do first, before anyone comes out.
Garbage disposals
- Hums but does not turn: jammed. Turn off the power, then use the hex wrench in the socket on the bottom of the unit to work it back and forth.
- Does nothing at all: press the red reset button on the bottom, then check the switch and breaker.
- Leaks from the bottom: the unit's internal seals have usually failed, and replacement is the fix.
- Leaks from the side: a loose dishwasher or drain connection, often repairable.
- Drains slowly: a clog in the drain line past the disposal, often from grease or fibrous food.
Never put your hand inside a disposal, even with the power off. Use tongs or pliers to remove objects.
Shutoff valves and supply lines
Every toilet and sink should have its own shutoff valve. Older multi-turn valves often seize or leak when finally used. Replacing them with quarter-turn valves and braided stainless supply lines is a small job that means you can stop a leak in seconds. While we are there, we check the washing machine hoses too; rubber hoses crack with age.
When to replace instead of repair
- The toilet or faucet has a cracked body
- Repair parts are no longer made for the model
- Repeated repairs on the same fixture
- Corroded or pitted faucet finish that leaks at the base
- A very old toilet that uses far more water per flush than current models
- You are remodeling and want the look to match
When you replace, look for the WaterSense label on toilets, faucets and showerheads. Labeled products are independently certified to use less water while performing well.
What you can safely do yourself
- Replace a flapper or adjust a chain or float
- Clean faucet aerators and shower heads
- Reset a garbage disposal
- Dye test your toilets once a year
- Find and test every shutoff valve in the house so you know they work
Call a plumber if water is leaking under a toilet, behind a wall, or from a shutoff valve that will not close, or if a repair requires pulling a toilet or opening a shower wall.
Fixture installation
We also install new fixtures you have picked out, or help you choose. Common installs include:
- Toilets, including comfort height and WaterSense labeled models
- Kitchen and bathroom faucets, including pull down and touchless models
- Shower valves and trim, including pressure balancing and thermostatic valves
- Garbage disposals, sized for the household
- Dishwasher and ice maker water connections
- Laundry hookups and washer boxes
- Outdoor frost-free spigots
Before buying a faucet, check the number of holes in your sink or countertop and whether the new faucet needs a deck plate. Before buying a toilet, measure the rough-in, the distance from the wall to the center of the floor bolts; 12 inches is most common, but some older homes have 10 or 14 inch rough-ins. Before buying a shower valve, know that the valve body inside the wall must match the trim, so a new trim kit only works with a compatible valve.
Make the most of one visit
If a plumber is coming for a running toilet, it is worth making a list of every small issue in the house: the slow bathroom sink, the dripping tub spout, the stiff shutoff under the kitchen sink, the washer hoses that look old. Handling several small jobs in one visit saves you from scheduling separate calls.
Water quality and your fixtures
Mineral deposits wear out cartridges, clog aerators and leave crusty buildup on shower heads. If you notice white or tan buildup, soak shower heads and aerators in white vinegar for a few hours to dissolve it. Rust colored water or black flakes at only some faucets can point to old galvanized pipe or a failing fixture part. If your water is discolored at every faucet, check with your water provider first; the City of Smyrna and Cobb County Water System each handle questions for their own customers.
Know your toilet type before you buy parts
- Standard gravity flush: the most common type, with a flapper and fill valve in the tank. Parts are widely available.
- Dual flush: two buttons for a smaller and larger flush. These use a different flush valve, often a canister seal instead of a flapper, and the seal is what usually wears out.
- Pressure assisted: a sealed pressure vessel inside the tank creates a powerful, loud flush. These need specific replacement cartridges and are best serviced by someone familiar with them.
- Wall hung or one piece: less common in Smyrna homes, but repairs can involve access panels or special parts.
Lift the tank lid and take a photo before you go to the store. Many fill valves and flappers are universal, but sizes vary: flappers come in 2 inch and 3 inch versions, and a wrong size will leak. The EPA suggests taking your old flapper to the store to match it. If you are not sure, a plumber will bring the right part.
Fixtures in Smyrna homes
Smyrna mixes older ranches with original bathrooms, renovated homes with modern fixtures, and newer townhomes and condos. In townhomes and condos near Cumberland and The Battery and in Vinings, a toilet leaking at the base or a failed shower valve can show up in the unit below, so these small jobs are worth handling quickly. In older homes in Cheney Woods and Bennett Woods, seized original shutoff valves are common. We serve Market Village, Forest Hills, Belmont Hills, Mableton and every other Smyrna area.
More plumbing services in Smyrna
- Emergency plumber in Smyrna: 24/7 burst pipes, no water, backups and leaks.
- Drain cleaning in Smyrna: Clogged sinks, tubs, toilets and main line backups.
- Leak detection & slab leaks in Smyrna: Hidden leaks in walls, slabs and yard lines.
- Pipe repair & repiping in Smyrna: Burst pipes, polybutylene and galvanized replacement.
- Water heater repair & installation in Smyrna: Tank and tankless repair and replacement.
- Sewer line repair in Smyrna: Camera inspection, roots, breaks and replacement.
- Water line repair in Smyrna: Main service line from the meter to the house.
Helpful Smyrna plumbing guides
Neighborhoods we serve
Licensed plumbers for homes in Market Village & Williams Park, Forest Hills, Bennett Woods & Cooper Lake, Cheney Woods & Smyrna Heights, Belmont Hills & King Springs, Vinings, Cumberland & The Battery, Mableton & Riverview. See every Smyrna service area or contact us.
Sources
- EPA WaterSense, Fix a Leak Week
- City of Smyrna, Water and Sewer Division (leak test tablets and aerators)
Written and reviewed by Alex, a Smyrna local with an MBA who researches and edits every page on this site, citing official and published sources. Updated October 25, 2026.
Plumbing work is performed by independent, licensed Georgia plumbers. General information, not legal or insurance advice.