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Pipe repair and repiping ยท Smyrna, GA

Pipe Repair and Whole House Repiping in Smyrna, GA Fix the leak today. Know if the rest of the pipe will follow.

A burst pipe after a freeze, a pinhole leak in old copper, rusty water from galvanized lines, or gray polybutylene pipe you just found in the attic. We repair what is leaking now and give you an honest read on whether the rest of your plumbing has years left or is due for replacement.

Open 24 hours, 7 daysClear answers firstLicensed Georgia plumbersBy Alex, updated October 25, 2026

Short answer: A single leak in otherwise sound pipe is usually a quick repair. Repiping makes more sense when you have repeated pinhole leaks, galvanized steel that rusts and restricts flow, or polybutylene pipe, a gray plastic supply pipe installed in many homes from the late 1970s to the mid 1990s that is prone to failure. Most whole house repipes today use PEX or copper.

Blue torch flame heating a copper coupler on a vertical pipe next to older copper pipework
Soldering a copper coupler on a vertical supply pipe.

If a pipe just burst

  1. Shut off the water at the main valve. In most Smyrna homes it is where the line enters the house: in a basement, crawl space, garage, utility closet or near the water heater. If you cannot find it, the curb valve in the meter box shuts the house off; it is often a quarter turn and may need a meter key.
  2. Turn off the water heater. Switch off the breaker for an electric unit, or set a gas unit to pilot or vacation.
  3. Open a faucet at the lowest point of the house to drain the lines and reduce pressure.
  4. Turn off power to wet areas if water is near outlets, fixtures or the electrical panel, and only if you can reach the breaker safely.
  5. Take photos of the break and the damage before cleanup for your insurance claim.
  6. Call us. Our emergency plumbers answer around the clock.

What your pipes are made of, and what that means

Smyrna's housing stock spans more than a century, from historic homes near Williams Park to post-war ranches and brand new townhomes, so the pipe in your walls depends a lot on when your house was built and whether it has been renovated.

PipeHow to recognize itCommon problems
Galvanized steelDull gray metal, threaded fittings; a magnet sticks to itRusts from the inside, low pressure, brown water, leaks at threads
CopperReddish brown or green metal with soldered jointsPinhole leaks with age or aggressive water, joint failures, freeze splits
PolybutyleneFlexible gray (sometimes blue or black) plastic, often stamped PB2110Breaks down over time and can fail without warning, especially at fittings
CPVCRigid cream or tan plastic with glued jointsGets brittle with age and heat, cracks if bumped or flexed
PEXFlexible plastic in red, blue or white, with crimp or expansion fittingsDurable; damage from rodents, sunlight before install, or poor fittings
Cast iron (drains)Heavy black pipe, usually large diameterCorrosion, cracking, scale that narrows the pipe

A quick way to check: look at the pipe coming out of the wall under a sink, near the water heater, or where the main line enters the house. Exposed pipe in a basement or crawl space tells you a lot about what is hidden in the walls, though some homes have a mix of materials from past repairs.

Polybutylene pipe in Smyrna homes

Polybutylene was a popular plastic supply pipe from roughly 1978 to 1995. It was later linked to widespread failures, and a large class action settlement in the mid 1990s covered replacement for many homeowners. That settlement has long since closed, but many homes still have the pipe. Smyrna grew fast in that era, so houses and townhomes built in the late 1970s through the mid 1990s are worth checking.

Why it matters now:

  • Polybutylene can fail suddenly, flooding a room rather than dripping slowly.
  • Some home insurers raise rates on, or decline to cover, homes with polybutylene.
  • Home inspectors flag it, which can complicate a sale or a refinance.

If you have it, replacing it on your schedule is almost always better than replacing it after a failure plus water damage.

Galvanized pipe in older Smyrna neighborhoods

Galvanized steel was common for supply lines in homes built before the 1960s. Neighborhoods that developed in the post-war boom, such as Cheney Woods and Smyrna Heights, may still have some original galvanized pipe, especially in homes that were never fully updated. Over decades, the zinc coating wears away and the steel rusts from the inside. Symptoms include:

  • Water pressure that drops slowly over years, often worse on hot water
  • Brown or rust-tinted water after the water sits overnight or after a vacation
  • Leaks at threaded joints
  • A faucet that improves when the aerator is cleaned, then clogs again with rust flakes

Spot repairs on galvanized pipe are possible, but disturbing old pipe often loosens scale and causes new problems nearby. Once galvanized starts leaking, most homeowners are better off replacing it.

Pinhole leaks in copper

Copper usually lasts a long time, but pinhole leaks can appear in older copper, especially on hot water lines and near elbows where water turbulence is highest. One pinhole is a repair. Several pinholes over a year or two usually mean the pipe wall is thinning throughout, and more will follow. A repair now and a repipe plan for later is a common, sensible approach.

Pinhole leak or old gray pipe? Call and we will give you an honest read on repair versus repipe.

A real person answers 24 hours a day and tells you what to do first, before anyone comes out.

(470) 357-0172

Repair or repipe? How we help you decide

SituationUsually
One leak in copper, PEX or CPVC that is otherwise in good shapeRepair
A pipe that split in a freeze, in an exposed spotRepair, and insulate the area
Second or third pinhole leak in a year or twoPlan a repipe
Any polybutylene supply pipePlan a repipe
Galvanized with low pressure or rusty waterRepipe
Major remodel with walls already openBest time to repipe
Buying an older homeHave the plumbing evaluated before closing

What a repipe looks like

  1. Walkthrough and plan. We trace where lines run, count fixtures, and choose the route for new pipe. In homes with a basement, crawl space or attic, new lines can often run there with fewer wall openings.
  2. Written scope. You get a plan covering pipe material, fixture count, wall openings and patching, and whether permits are included.
  3. Protect the house. Floors and furnishings are covered, and work areas are kept as contained as possible.
  4. Install new lines. New pipe goes in while the old pipe is still connected where possible, so your water is off for as little time as practical. Many repipes on typical homes take a few days.
  5. Pressure test and inspect. New lines are tested for leaks before walls are closed. Where a permit is required, the work is inspected.
  6. Patch. Openings are closed. Ask whether drywall patching and paint are part of the job; some plumbers include patching but not finish painting.
Cordless drill with a hole saw above corroded copper and green-stained pipes in a wall cavity
Corroded pipework exposed in a wall, a common reason for repiping.

PEX or copper?

PEX

  • Usually quicker to install, with fewer fittings
  • Flexible, so it snakes through walls with fewer openings and fewer fittings
  • More forgiving than rigid pipe in a freeze, though it can still split
  • Must be kept out of sunlight and protected from rodents

Copper

  • More labor to install than PEX
  • Long track record, holds up to heat, and is not affected by sunlight
  • Rigid, so more fittings and usually more wall openings

For most whole house repipes, PEX gives the best value. Copper still makes sense for exposed runs and some homeowner preferences. We will tell you honestly which fits your house.

Burst pipes and Smyrna freezes

Metro Atlanta does not freeze often, which is exactly why pipes here are vulnerable when it does. Lines in exterior walls, crawl spaces, attics and garages are the usual casualties. Many Smyrna homes saw burst pipes after the hard freeze around Christmas 2022, and winter storms in January 2025 brought another round. If your house has had a pipe split in a freeze before, the fix should include insulating or rerouting that section, not just patching the break. Read our frozen pipe guide for Smyrna.

Insurance and pipe damage

Many homeowners policies cover sudden and accidental water damage, like a pipe bursting, but not the pipe repair itself, and not damage from slow leaks or wear and tear. Freeze damage may be excluded if the house was left unheated. Take photos, stop the water, keep your plumber's invoice and report the claim promptly. This is general information, not insurance advice; your policy wording decides.

How to prepare for a repipe

  • Clear access. Empty sink cabinets and closets that share walls with bathrooms, and clear a path to the attic, crawl space and water heater.
  • Plan around water outages. Ask for the daily schedule so you know when water will be off, and plan showers and laundry around it.
  • Protect valuables and electronics in rooms where walls will be opened.
  • Pets and kids: plan to keep them away from work areas, open walls and tools.
  • Ask about upgrades. A repipe is the easiest time to add a shutoff valve for each fixture, move a laundry hookup, add an outdoor spigot, or install a whole house shutoff that is easy to reach.
  • Tell your insurer. If you are replacing polybutylene or galvanized, keep the invoice. Some insurers want proof of replacement.

Selling or buying a home with old pipes

Home inspectors regularly flag polybutylene, galvanized supply lines and active leaks. If you are selling, a known plumbing issue can slow down a deal, and repiping before listing can remove an objection. If you are buying, ask the inspector to identify the supply pipe material at the water heater, under sinks, in the attic and in the crawl space, and get a plumber's opinion before your inspection period ends.

What about drain pipes?

Repiping usually refers to the supply lines that carry pressurized water. Drain lines are a separate system. Older homes may have cast iron drains that corrode and crack, or clay sewer laterals invaded by roots. If you are already opening walls for a repipe, it is worth having us look at accessible drain lines too, and a camera inspection of the main drain can show whether the sewer line needs attention. Doing both at once can save on access and patching.

Pipe repair and repiping across Smyrna

We repair and replace pipe throughout Smyrna and nearby south Cobb. Homes in Bennett Woods and Cooper Lake and Forest Hills are often at the age where original supply lines are due for a look, while late 1970s to mid 1990s homes and townhomes in areas like Belmont Hills and King Springs and Vinings are worth checking for polybutylene. See all service areas.

More plumbing services in Smyrna

Helpful Smyrna plumbing guides

Neighborhoods we serve

Licensed plumbers for homes in Market Village & Williams Park, Forest Hills, Bennett Woods & Cooper Lake, Cheney Woods & Smyrna Heights, Belmont Hills & King Springs, Vinings, Cumberland & The Battery, Mableton & Riverview. See every Smyrna service area or contact us.

Sources

Alex

Written and reviewed by Alex, a Smyrna local with an MBA who researches and edits every page on this site, citing official and published sources. Updated October 25, 2026.

Plumbing work is performed by independent, licensed Georgia plumbers. General information, not legal or insurance advice.

Questions we hear

Pipe repair and repiping questions from Smyrna homeowners

How do I know if I have polybutylene pipe?

Look for flexible gray plastic supply pipe, sometimes stamped PB2110, near the water heater, under sinks, at the main shutoff or in the attic or crawl space. It was common from roughly 1978 to 1995.

Should I replace polybutylene even if it is not leaking?

Most plumbers recommend it. Polybutylene can fail without warning, and some insurers and home buyers treat it as a risk. Replacing it on your schedule beats replacing it after a flood.

Is PEX or copper better for repiping?

For most whole house repipes, PEX installs faster and needs fewer wall openings. Copper has a longer track record and suits exposed runs. Both are solid choices when installed correctly.

How long does a whole house repipe take?

Many typical homes take a few days, depending on size, access and how many walls need opening. Water is usually off only for parts of each day.

Will repiping fix low water pressure?

If low pressure comes from corroded galvanized pipe, yes, usually dramatically. If the cause is a failing pressure regulator, a partly closed valve or the city supply, repiping will not help, so we check those first.

Can you repair one section of galvanized pipe?

It is possible, but working on old galvanized often loosens scale and causes leaks nearby. Once it is leaking, replacement is usually the better spend.

Does insurance pay for a burst pipe?

Many policies cover sudden water damage from a burst pipe but not the pipe repair itself, and not slow leaks. Freeze damage can be excluded if a home was unheated. Check your policy; this is not insurance advice.

Do you patch the walls after repiping?

Ask for patching to be spelled out in the written scope. Many plumbers close and patch openings; finish painting is often separate.

Leaking pipe or worried about old plumbing? Call.

Tell us how old the house is and what the pipe looks like. We will tell you whether a repair makes sense or whether repiping is the better spend.

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